Lelia & David 7/13/09

Lelia & David 
7/13/09

Weather Clear at times with thunderstorms most afternoons
Temp 70F
Wind calm

After months of planning, Lelia came to visit us in Novosibirsk. Who is Lelia?

In 1964, Cindy spent a year in the dormitories of Sacramento State College while attending during her last year there. Lelia was a Resident Assistant, an assistant to Molly Galbraith who was the dorm Mom.

We have stayed in touch with Lelia over the last 44 years through marriage, kids, various businesses, divorce, and a B&B in South Dakota. She shows great taste by being an avid reader of this blog and generally is a person worth knowing for so long. Of all of our friends who said, "We'll come and visit you", Lelia predictably did just that. If you were ever limited to just one friend, Lelia would be the right choice.

Who's David? This is a story that could be attached to very few people, but is typically Lelia. She wanted a traveling companion for this trip (good choice Lelia) and she tried many people with no takers. Her sister almost came (same gene pool) but just couldn't manage it. Finally, she mentioned it to a man she had "met" on the internet in some way and he said, "That would be a trip of a lifetime" to which she said impulsively (that's Lelia) "You wanna go?" I don't know the details from there except that her kids in Colorado knew of him and he was raised in South Dakota in the same town as she was. Go figure. That started several months of getting acquainted, comparing various values, making tentative plans, and finally deciding to make the trip together; no romance, just traveling companions.


When she told us of her plans we of course had some predictable, immediate reactions like, "What are you thinking?" and "Do you know this guy?", and "What are you thinking?", and "you wouldn't make the trip without a traveling companion and now you are coming with a guy you met over the internet? What are you thinking?" etc., etc.

Well, the final arrangements were contingent on David living in the front room and she in the guest room to which she said, "We have already got that straight. There's no romance here, just traveling companions." Sooooo, with that settled, we all shook hands electronically and the trip was ON.

The morning they arrived, we got the "big taxi-bid driver" and headed to the airport. (You remember the blog about going to the train station with the 300 lb taxi driver in the taxi with no shocks, right? Well he hasn't invested in any repairs yet.) We met David for the first time and immediately felt comfortable with him; nice guy. With that resolved, we launched a week of seeing the "sights" of Novosibirsk and catching up with Lelia's life over the last years.


First thing was to introduce her to the landmarks around our building. Here Cindy is showing her the street and commenting on the drivers who have to do the slalom around the potholes and open storm drains and how we know if a "newby" is approaching by the screech and a thump.

Next, there was the presentation of gifts and some things we had asked her to bring from the U.S. of A that we cannot get here. Foremost of these were the strings of christmas tree lights to re-light Sister Cindy's "New Year" trees whose lights had become defunct.


With that done, we planned to give her the total immersion experience of missionaries in Novosibirsk; nothing extraordinary, just a typical week. We had our usual missionary companionships to dinner each night (normalna), took them to the Mickelsen's fairwell gathering for the Novosibirsk District (she's socializing and he's wondering), took a ride south through Akademgorodok, the science city built from scratch in 1959 intended to gather all of the great minds in Russia to do pure research, the Obe Sea (a lake made by the hydro-electric dam on the river), a Russian Orthodox monastery, a Zone Meeting in our apartment, and lots of contacts with locals.

On one afternoon we did the two little museums in the downtown area, the park across from "Ploshed Lenina" (Lenin Plaza) in front of the opera/ballet house, investigated the chapel that marks the center of Russia (east and west), saw a bride and groom release the traditional doves on the chapel steps just before the matron of the chapel came out to shoo them away, and generally acted like unabashed tourists. We took them with the Zone (as our personal guests) to a cultural day activity and saw Swan Lake (my 4th time) at the Bolshoi (big) theater on Lenin Plaza.


During her stay, she offered to hem the pants of my old; winter suit that had cuts along the bottom of each cuff made by walking on them on the ice during the winter. With the weight I've lost my pants became too long and the cuffs took the abuse. She also gave Sister Cindy a haircut in the entry hall late one night. Cindy got a little nervous when she said, "I haven't cut hair since we were in the dorms together", but it turned out well and provided a sweet memory of days long past.
We introduced them to the office staff and got Olga to go with us on our downtown tour. She's a great guide and a wonderful friend. Our drive to Akedemgorodok and the Obe Sea involved President Gushchin (we bought the gas) and he is always kind and friendly. She came to church with us and survived all three hours, went to the office several times with us, and toured around on their own several times to get the feeling of real Russia.

Over the years, we have mentioned our faith and danced around the subject of our beliefs, but never really explained the church and it's teachings to Lelia. With her coming to visit us on our mission, it became natural to introduce her to the Articles of Faith and have several in depth discussions, late at night of course, about the gospel as we know it and bear our witness of what we know to be true.

When you know something that is so important and answers the questions of the soul as to who we are, why we are here, and where we are going, you have to share that with the people you love. We cannot leave this world without doing so because we will be judged by God for our neglect. So we gave her a Book of Mormon with our testimonies and hope that she will at least read it. She was respectful and cordial during our discussions, but I got no concrete response. I know that she felt something during those talks, but I'm not sure she can act on it. That ball's in her court. In any case, we love her and we took every opportunity to share our lives in Novosibirsk with her. We hope that her expectations about this trip were met. She is a dear friend and a true Christian.

What a friend. What a country.
DS

Old Stuff 7/13/09

Old Stuff 
7/13/09

Weather
Heavy overcast and rain approaching. You can see it coming from the west Wind 1-3 mph, Temp 78F Low tonight 58 F High Monday 79F


The old log house is gone. Remember the log house that I showed you last summer and winter? It is located on the corner of Gushchinstraya and the driveway leading along the south side of our building. You don't know Gushchinstraya? I digress:

Last year the street that connects our street and our building's driveway was a dirt road full of potholes and mounds of trash. Last fall someone laid sidewalks and paved the street next to an apartment that was in the final construction phase. I suspect it was them.

Anyway, the day it was paved, President Gushchin, the mission driver, was to take us shopping and as he drove west down the driveway from the office to the little dirt street we realized that he might get stuck in the new blacktop and as we turned the corner (left onto the street) we shouted "stop". We explained the danger and he said, "I will be first", put it into low and drove up the incline that produces Gushchin lake at that spot in the spring and zoomed down the street. From that day it was called Gushchinstraya by all of us and we love to tell the story to a new audience.

Well, anyway, if you look at the far distance on the right you can see a tree and the roof of the log house on the corner. Here is a close-up of the house's south side and the front window. Since the whole north side was caved in and the tin roof was pulled up and even missing in spots, we believed that it was abandoned, but during the winter we noticed a light on inside and decided someone was in there.


Well, it is gone. A week ago or so, we were walking our usual route to the office and saw the house half gone at the hands of a murderous backhoe. By our return trip that afternoon the lot was empty except for the ruts and the leftover trash.

It was very sad to me. I liked that house. It was a relic of a bygone era right there on Gushchinstraya and we could admire the construction techniques (well, I could. Sister Simmons never commented on it) the way the logs were fitted together to make a tight wall, the cross-hatch lath plastered with adobe mud and painted white on the interior walls now exposed to the weather, the ceiling joists dove-tailed into the wall logs, the blue painted gingerbread around the windows; it was classic 19th century Russia. Now instead of the house, we are treated to this classic view of a job well done. Well, it's done anyway.


More and more I am learning to value, and even admire old things. I have always liked historical stuff and Russia is full of it, but I'm just talking about old stuff like this log house. I also love roses in full bloom, old cars, old wooden housing units, old churches, old clothes, old furniture, old telephones, old kitchen tools, old farm implements, old instruments, and I even have come to admire and appreciate old people. Each of these things have character born of experience, utility in their time, and a special beauty that can only be appreciated by someone who will take the time to look beyond the surface.

Today, the Sunday School lesson was taught by a sister who is probably in her mid 50's (looking much older) with a badly misshapen back and a few missing teeth. I had not paid much attention to her other than to notice her infirmities and mentally noting that she appearing older than I thought she really was.

As I watched her sitting at the table giving the lesson, I saw someone else there. I could imagine her 30 years ago as a young girl in the bud of her life. I saw the twinkle in her eye as she said something sly and others reacted. Her wrinkles smoothed out and her chin became firm. Her hair took on a youthful luster and her shoulders were not so stooped. I saw in the Spirit the girl who was still inside the woman and I appreciated her beauty and poise. She was bright. She was witty. She was attractive both physically and spiritually. I will always see her that way now that I have seen her as she really is.

On our way out of the metro tonight as we went to the Millers who hosted this YSA Fireside, there was an old woman at the top of the stairs with a plastic cup, begging alms. I had seen her on the metro last week as she fought to keep her balance in the crowded car, unable to reach the hand-holds that were mounted well above her 4-foot high frame. Her body was bent in a question mark that caused her to see only waist high on the people around her, yet she stood her ground against gravity.

Tonight, as she stood there with her cup, I passed her, then reached into my pocket for the change I have been carrying for just such an opportunity, turned and dropped a few ruble coins into her cup. She turned her body slightly away from me, twisted her neck and head around enough to look me in the face, and made the sign of the cross in my direction. Again, as I looked into her face, and she into mine, I saw her true, youthful, bright trueness and thanked God for the vision and the blessing from this daughter of God.

Yes, I will miss the old log house, but I am going to make more of an effort to look deeper into the old people around me before they too are gone. They are worth looking into.

What a life. What a country.
DS

(The rain is here)

We're Bum'd July 9, 2009

We're Bum'd 
July 9, 2009

Weather
Temp--High 86F
Wind 2-5 mph easterly most of the day. Dead calm now at 9:30 PM and 72F.
Rain in our hearts

July 7th nine of our missionaries went home; Elders Pister, Christiansen, Russel, Pingree, Jensen, McBride, Pettit, Olson, and Sister Doutre. As it should be with missionaries who have been here two years (for the elders and 18 months for sisters), they are the best we have in the mission and they are gone. Most of them have either served in Novosibirsk or passed through our lives in some meaningful way. Elders Olson and McBride were office elders and Elder Pingree was an Assistant, and we get attached to them more than most.

Here they are as they are departing for the Mission Home for their last meal in Novo and their going home "ceremony" which I have never been witness to. It is now two days later and the full impact of their leaving is with us.

We have welcomed two new missionaries into the mission today, Sister Mitchell from Bluebell, Utah and Elder Gornostayev from Moscow. They are both fine young people, but they ARE young; greenies. They are nervous, a little scared, and not quite focused after their long trip and whirlwind orientation. They will do well and be just as big lights in the mission field as those who just left, but that's in the future.

As Sister Cindy and I were sitting at the table a few minutes ago, trying to do our jobs, scripture reading, ironing some shirts, making the bed with sheet I washed this morning, etc. we both look like someone shot our dog and just had to comment to each other what a loss it is to send these great young people home. They are our support, our lights, our interpreters, our guides in the city, OUR missionaries. This is hard!

I finally let myself acknowledge that this is why we are here; not to be lit by others but to be the light for them. We are the constant. We are the continuity. We are the one who are always THERE when they call, when they ask, when they complain, when they doubt, when they cry. The mission president is their spiritual leader and mentor, but we are their parents.

In addition to those missionaries, others of our friends are leaving, or making noises about leaving. Sister Gorlova went to Irkutsk, Elder Swensen went to Krasnoyarsk, and Elder Kolpakov goes to Kemerovo tomorrow. Misha Nicholiachev, son of Brat Pyotr the District president and one of our office staff, left for the MTC and the Moscow Mission. Ivan and Kasusha Smukov, our real estate employee and our best male interpreter, will leave for the US to go to school at the LDS Business College in July. Anna our choir pianist and Lydia our Russian teacher are talking about moving to St Petersburg together. Who is going to take care of US?!

After some mutual grumping and general commiserating, I decided again that we ARE the light. We have to step up and continue to be the people who do the helping and not the ones being helped. Anyway, one of the great parts (if there is one) of them going home is getting an email from one of them telling what they are doing and seeing them in their new environs. It is a joy.

So, enough of this moping around. We felt the same way when the last large group of missionaries went home and recovered. We have to gird up our loins, fresh courage take, and know that our God will never us forsake. And soon we'll have this tale to tell. All is well. All is well.

What a life. What a country.
DS

A Letter to the President

A Letter to the President
July 2009

This is a copy of the letter that we gave to President and Sister Mickelsen Monday night. I have posted it as an open tribute to our out-going mission president and his wife who return to the US on Thursday. They have been wonderful leaders for this mission. We will miss them.

President and Sister Mickelsen July, 2009

We have been thinking of a fitting gift for you as you leave your service here in Novosibirsk and decided that you didn’t need something else to dust, so I am writing in behalf of Sister Cindy and myself to just say thank you for your service to the members in this mission, to the missionaries and senior couples, and particularly to us as your office couple. We are also giving you the root beer float straw-spoons, as something to remember us by that doesn’t need dusting. Enjoy them with your family and remember.

To say that we have enjoyed our association with you would be inadequate. First, having been in Russia three times ourselves, we deeply respect anyone who would accept a return assignment, knowing the life that you would be living for those years. It is a testament to your love of the people and your dedication to the Lord.

We so appreciated your kind concern when we first came to Novosibirsk and your continued personal attention to our needs. Although we had some idea of the conditions, nothing really prepares you for the immersion into this place. Your encouragement, love, and support were truly appreciated. It was a warmth and concern that we hope, in turn, to show to others who come to serve here.


Your leadership has been a great example to us of how one can be light and fun, but stern and serious when needed. You are what the missionaries needed to know they were loved and still feel like they must work hard to measure up to expectations. I especially enjoyed both of your Zone Conference presentations. Sister Mickelsen’s stories and teachings were masterful and the video presentations were inspirational. Your gospel messages always send me to my scriptures to learn more of that particular principle and I always feel uplifted.

Thank you beyond thanks for your service and the lives you have lived to prepare you for this great assignment. May you feel the love of God in your lives going forward and receive the blessings the Lord has for those who love Him as you do.

With great love and gratitude for a job well done.

Elder and Sister Simmons
Russia Novosibirsk Office Couple

An aside to my readers 6/26/09

An aside to my readers 6/26/09

Weather-Rain, rain, rain
Temp has bee in the mid 50's F
Wind--as usual

This blog is an aside to my readers. It is sorta like the Words of Mormon after Omni.
An aside to my readers 
6/26/09

Thank you for reading. I love to read the comments. Actually, I check my own blog daily in hopes that someone will leave a comment. Writing a blog is somewhat like sending a letter to "To Whom It May Concerned" with no address and hoping that someone reads it. I certainly am writing this for my own purposes, but the feedback is oxygen for the suffocating.

To those of you who are computer semi-literate and are afraid to try leaving a comment; it is very user-friendly. There are prompts to lead you through the initial process and then the next time you comment, the program will remember you. Try it.

Melinda, you said that only those who have served in Eastern Europe can really understand what we are doing every day. How right you are. We had talked to some former Russian missionaries before we came, but you just cannot really be prepared. Americans cannot understand the joy of having the electricity in your kitchen working again, having water, having hot water, and having a Preparation Day when you can clean the grime from the horizontal surfaces that you cleaned last week. We do look forward to meeting you and your husband when we return to trade war-stories and reminisce.

Diane, my sister, I'm so glad that you enjoy our adventures. Although some of them are not really too funny at the time, the level of lunacy just cannot be imagined, and that alone makes all of them funny.

My girls Shannon, Trisha, and Andrea--You are my most loyal and consistent followers. Thanks for encouraging the old boy to keep going. I love you and really love to read your comments. I am trying to reciprocate by commenting on your blogs. Let's keep each other going.

Belva, Emily, Cathy, Stephanie--I am encouraged by your comments. I haven't seen you comment for a while, but life happens doesn't it. Thanks for your support.

Marilyn-I miss you. Are you OK? I'm still getting your broadcasts and love the video clips, but I miss your pithy comments. Hope all is well.

What a nice group
Doug

Irkutsk and Baikal 6/24/09

Irkutsk and Baikal 
6/24/09

Weather
Clear skies, sun, clouds, thunderstorm, bright sunset again
Wind 2-30 mph
Temp 67F

The last city we visited on our trip east was the Irkutsk region including Angarsk and Lake Baikal. My only association with Irkutsk was as a region in the game of Risk. Now I have been there and it is a lovely city.

We were hosted by President and Sister Southam, the second counselor in the mission presidency and authority for the eastern cities. As we came from the airport to their apartment, the first landmark they pointed out was a tank about a block away from their home. This particular tank was one of six that were paid by the children of Irkutsk and supplied to the Soviet army during the second world war and survived to be returned as a thank you.

I became fascinated with the old wooden houses that lined many of the streets as we went from their apartment to the downtown area. This one is typical of what we saw, log houses with bright blue frames around the windows that often were at ground (street) level. I did some research about it and discovered that these homes have no running water, some with no electricity, and many without indoor plumbing. Many are condemned as unlivable, but most have people still living in them. It appears like the buildings are sinking, but actually the surrounding ground and street have been rising over the years due to the yearly flooding of the Angara river until several dams were built over the last 50 or so years to control the river level. I just love the detail on these houses and can imagine how they must have looked when they were first built.

The city has built several log homes in the part behind the tank to show what the 17th century homes looked like when they were new. Here is one of them as it would have looked. I could be very happy in one of these.

By contrast, here is a close up sample of Soviet era construction exposed in a wall of the Southam's apartment. This is typical of the buildings here. Ours in Novo is different only in that it is concrete, but the same level of competence is evidenced in it. Southam's is a five story Khruschev era brick building where ours is a 9 story later model.

Friday after District Meeting, the Southams took us on a tour of downtown. We rode the bus to the town center, past the Renik, and near the river. We walked through the flower mart and over to some Russian Gift stores that were formerly the official Soviet era tourist stores. We looked at Baikal stones and other things and always came to the same conclusion, "what will we do with it and where will we keep it" We usually just give up and walk away.

The river front park was beautiful and could have been in any city in the world. The people were happy and content, the scenery was wonderful, and the weather just right. This is a 360 degree look at the waterfront park as we saw it.


Saturday we rented a van, marshutka from the father of a member of the branch and she went along as our interpreter. We were driven to the shore of Lake Baikal by way of a federal park where they had many of the early settlers' buildings that had been moved from other locations to this park for a concentrated look at the homes and buildings of the settlers of Siberia.

The forests are even now extremely thick and in those days more mature and even thicker. All of these old buildings are made of logs and sawed wood and have a rich look. The doorways were all about 5 feet high and made you stoop over to enter. I don't know if the people were that short or it was just convenient to deal with smaller doors, but they are consistent

I guess I'd like to wrap up our visit to Irkutsk and our over-view of eastern Siberia with a comment and a question. Every place people have come to settle has been populated by someone else before them. They may have been nomads who just wandered through the area seasonally, or clusters of people (or maybe full settlements) related by blood or loyalty, but absolutely empty land is a rarity. Even the account of Lehi intimates that they were not moving into a land that had never seen human foot. The account of Coriantumr from Ether's last pages and the discovery of the people of Zarahemla bears that out.

My comment is this: As one group settles, or migrates, in a place, others eventually come and attempt to possess it, not by law, not by agreement, not by purchase, but simply because they can. In the last analysis, none of this earth really belongs to any of us by right. It is all God's and we possess it either by greater force than those who want to take it or by agreement with, and/or by assignment from, God. If we are left alone to hold it by force, it is only a matter of time before a greater force takes it from us. This was demonstrated in the Immigrants to the U.S. and their treatment of the former residents of whatever place they claimed.

However, if we possess a place by God's grace and we pay for it with our obedience to his commandments, there is no force that can take it from us because the true owner has given it to us and He will defend His covenant people. As a people, the residents of this great land of Siberia have not yet covenanted with the true landlord for permission to possess it. When they do, it will be a choice land, a bountiful land, a land of freedom and beauty and power with enough and more for all.

My question: When?

What a country
DS

Ulan-Ude 6/23/09

Ulan-Ude
Tuesday June 23, 2009



While visiting Ulan-Ude we took a day to see the sites and our first stop was the Buddhist monastery about an hour north of the city.
Ivolginsky Dazan is the main Buddhist temple of Russia. Built in 1947, the Dazan is 30 km away from Ulan-Ude and is the main residence of Central Ecclesiastical Directorate of Russian Buddhists. While there we spoke to a lama and a 16 year old novitiate who was learning to be a lama. While we were there we saw the ritual service and mantras readings for people who "phone in" their requests for prayers, a major income source for the Temple.

This monastery was the home of Dashi-Dorzho Itigilov, born in 1852, he began his religious education at the age of 16 and eventually earned degrees in medicine and philosophy. In 1911, he was appointed the 12th Pandito Khambo Lama (also spelled Hambo Lama), the head of Buddhism in Russia.

As Khambo Lama, he is credited with inspiring a Buddhist revival among Buryats. He was also closely involved with Tsar Nicholas II. In 1926, Itigilov warned his students about the coming terror of the "red teaching" and advised them to flee to Tibet, but he remained in Siberia.

In 1927 he announced it was time for his passing. He asked the lamas to join him in meditation and begin funeral rites, and he died while meditating in the lotus position at the age of 75. In accordance with his will, his body was buried in a wooden box sitting upright in the lotus position. He requested that monks exhume his body after a period of some years and this was done once in 1955 and again in 1973. Both times they found the body perfectly preserved and still sitting upright.

The body was transferred to the Ivolginksy Dazan and publicly unveiled for the first time in September 2002, 75 years after his death in 1927. His body has decayed slightly since its exhumation but still remains in a state of preservation that baffles scientists and draws believers by the thousands. In November 2004, Professor Viktor Zvyagin of the Federal Center of Forensic Medicine examined Itigilov's body and concluded that the body was in the condition of someone who had died 36 hours ago. A big mystery.

On designated days, the faithful can come to the monastery and view, and even touch, the lama and receive restoration of health, good luck, and improved life. We missed one of those occasions by a day.

The city of Ulan-Ude first appeared in 1666 as a Cossack outpost, where Russian Cossacks moved to the east. Scientific sources indicate that from time immemorial there were migratory path of humanity. Trade with neighboring countries has brought the city fame, and trade fairs were organized here each year, which take place to this day. Originally it was called Verhneudinsk and in 1934 it was renamed Ulan-Ude, which is translated from Buryat language meaning "red river".

The main attraction sights are located along Lenina Street. The Odigitrievsky cathedral is located at the very beginning of the street. It was built in the second half of the 18th century in the name of the icon of the Mother of God Odigitriya. Now there are Holy Trinity Church, Church of the Ascension, and Verhneudinskaya chapel in the name of the prelate Innocent.

A triumphal arch was built in honor of Tsesarevich Nicholas Alexandrovich, who visited the town in 1891 and it was restored in 2006. A copy of the kings' gates now adorns the streets of Lenina. It was the coat of arms of Russia and the inscription: "20-21 June 1891 - the date of arrival in Verhneudinsk Tsesarevich Nikolai Alexandrovich" is made.

The largest "Lennin Head" statue in Russia is on Soviet Square at the head of Lenina Street, It is quite imposing and makes a statement, but the only people interested are the tourists.

In the afternoon we visited some potential Humanitarian projects. One was a maternity hospital and here are the Bowdens and our two translators and government officials on the steps ready to go into our appointment.

In this hospital they say that a third of the babies born go into intensive care for a period of time. This is one of two surviving triplets that were born 2 1/2 months premature and will be in this incubator for a long time and weighs less than 3 lbs right now. Hopfully the Bowdens can get them some more monitoring units and a person to train the staff in neo-natal resussitation. There is much to be done here.

This city has a unique mix of ethnic groups that we don't see in the rest of Siberia. I really enjoyed the Temple, the city sites and the hospital visit. This has been a very interesting trip into a part of Russia not well known to westerners.

What a country
DS